Nupps: the Key to Estonian Lace Knitting

Estonian lace differs from other fine knitted lace in one key way. It features nupps. The word translates as “bud” and is a concentration of yarn to create some density in the fine fabric. The Australians call the stitch a button, as a well executed nupp looks very much like a button.

By adding nupps, you can add emphasis to part of your project.

Initially, I was going to title this webpage “Nupps: the Stars of Estonian Lace Knitting”. Then I realized that I’ve sometimes used the star stitch in my projects, as in the picture above. Both stitches use one of the same components. Specifically, you knit into a stitch more than once.

To make a nupp, you knit into the stitch, 3, 5, 7, or 9 times. On the purl row of a nupp, you knit all the clustered stitches together.

To make a star stitch, you knit 3 or 5 stitches together, then without moving the stitch from the feeder needle, you knit into the cluster the same number of times (increase 3 if you decreased 3). You are decreasing and increasing at the same time. It’s much easier to do than explain.

Lace is beautiful with or without nupps. However, nupps provide emphasis.

Nupps are nor exclusive to lace shawls.

In these mother-daughter wrist warmers, nupps add density and texture. The pattern is Hokoburo by Lanja Khon-Engheim.

In my Haiku sweater, I replaced the bobbles with nupps. (Sweater pattern Haiku by Knitting For Breakfast).

I have seen a cushion featuring an eight-pointed star knit with nupps. Unlike the two above examples, there was no lace to be seen on the cushion.

As with many things, making a nupp is difficult if you read the directions without seeing the process. Most crocheters catch on right away, as it’s similar to a crochet stitch. Once you catch on and have done your first 100 nupps, you’re set for life.